So why microneedling for acne? Microneedling is something that is historically been used for cosmetic concerns and when you’re thinking about acne and acne scars microneedling, the only thing that it’s been FDA approved for is for treating acne scars.
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My name’s Michelle Gellis, and I am an acupuncture physician. Hi, my name’s I specialize in facial and cosmetic acupuncture, and today I am going to be doing a presentation, a short presentation, which is part of a longer class that I teach on microneedling for acne and acne scars. So you can go to the first slide.
A portion of this webinar is taken from my book. Let’s see if I can get in the middle. It’s called, thank you. It’s called Treating the Face, and it is a comprehensive guide on treating the face for health professionals. Everything from cosmetic and neuromuscular acupuncture to facial cupping and gua sha.
And there is a chapter on microneedling. So many of the images today are from that. And this is just some photos from the inside of the book. So why microneedling for acne? Microneedling is something that is historically been used for cosmetic concerns and when you’re thinking about acne and acne scars microneedling, the only thing that it’s been FDA approved for is for treating acne scars.
And I’m going to explain that in a moment, but it can also help with acne itself. So what are some of the benefits for microneedling for acne and acne scars? So microneedling can help with the scar itself, it can help with the discoloration, and it can also help with the skin texture. Microneedling will break down the scar tissue.
for the acne scars and it encourages healthy skin regeneration and it helps with the hyperpigmentation, which is a darkening of the skin that can happen when you have had acne. And overall, it will improve the skin tone and the texture making the scars less noticeable. A little bit about acne and there’s different types of acne.
So here is a normal sebaceous gland and hair follicle. And what can happen is the pore of the follicle gets infected with bacteria, and if the skin is healed over it, then you have a white head. If it’s open and oxygen gets to the bacteria, then it becomes a black head. If it gets infected, then you can get this redness around the white head, and If it is inflamed and infected, then you can get a large area of redness, and this is called pustule.
There are also different types of acne scars and boxcar scars. Scars are more of a square shape, ice pick scars are round and deep, keloid scars are raised, and rolling scars are when you have scars that run into one another. What microneedling does is it controls So the little injuries that are, cause when you do microneedling, it stimulates collagen production.
stimulates the skin’s wound healing responses, activating these fibroblasts, and these fibroblasts produce collagen, elastin, and to repair the skin. Microneedling. Also creates little microchannels in the skin, so whatever products you may be using get better absorbed. Here is a picture of a cross section of skin.
Here is the and this is just the epidermis, so the outer layer of the skin. These are all the dead cells on the top. And this is called the stratum corneum, and down here at the bottom, this is the stratum basal, and these are where all the new skin cells are produced. And so when you microneedle, you are both helping the stratum corneum to be exfoliated and you’re reaching down past the keratinocytes down into the stratum basal where the new fibroblast cells create healthy collagen.
So there were many different microneedling devices. There are a dermaroller, which is a non mechanical device where you just roll these little needles on the skin. There’s also a Dermastamp which you stamp onto the skin and you can fill this with serum or different products. And these are really meant for in home use to treat the skin at home.
This is a microneedle pen and this microneedle pen has different speeds for working on different areas of the skin. And it also has different depths. These are little needle cartridges. that connect onto the pen that go into the skin and I offer a four hour training on using a microneedle pen for wrinkles, hair loss and also for acne and acne scars, so how to actually use a microneedle pen.
the pen. So here are some before and after photos of acne and acne scars. This one was microneedling and this one was just using a derma roller. So some of the contraindications are if someone has actual acne. active pustule acne, you don’t want to be microneedling over that. If there’s any sort of infection going on, you don’t want to microneedle over that.
If the person is pregnant, you don’t want to be using a microneedle pen. You could do some derma rolling, but the biggest concern is infection and introducing any sort of infection. So you would want to make You were microneedling with a derma roller or a derma stamp that your device was clean and sterile.
With a microneedle pen, the cartridges are thrown out, but since you’re going deeper, you do run more of a risk of infection. Other contraindications are keloid scars, any sort of bleeding disorder, any sort of skin condition. or if the person is using Retin A or Tretinonin this thins the skin and can be a contraindication.
Other contraindications are if the person has open wounds or cuts, any allergies to any of the ingredients in the numbing agent that you might use or the serum any sort of autoimmune disorder. And, or if they have active cancer or they’re going through radiation therapy.
Some precautions that you would use are to make sure, as I mentioned, that your tools are sterile. And you might also want to do some patch testing, especially if the person has darker skin. And you want to avoid any overly sensitive areas, especially areas where the skin is very thin, the red part of the lips.
inside the orbital rim. As I mentioned do a patch test and avoid any areas where there’s pustule apnea, rosacea, or broken skin. When you’re thinking about different types of skin that might be better suited to microneedling, you want to think about the Fitzpatrick scale. So that’s how dark someone’s skin is.
So darker skin types are more prone to Inflammation sorry, post inflammatory pigmentation. So you would want a patch test if someone has dark skin. And then you would adjust the needle depth and frequency for sensitive or any reactive skin types. So what this boils down to is really doing a thorough consultation to meet the person’s individual needs.
As far as results, typically people come once a month and results are typically seen within three to six treatments. And during the time the person is getting treated, they should avoid using any retinoids, exfoliants, whether it’s a physical exfoliant like a scrub or a chemical exfoliant like alpha or a beta hydroxy acid.
They should not have any exposure to direct sunlight for 48 hours after the treatment. When you’re doing, whether it’s microneedling or dermal rolling, you want to use some sort of a serum when you’re doing your treatment. And then post treatment you want to have something such as aloe, arnica, something that will soothe the skin.
And when you’re treating the skin during the treatment, having something with Peptides, hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, collagen, these are all good ingredients to have when you’re doing the micrometaling. So the hyaluronic acid will hydrate the skin, and it also helps post procedure. The vitamin C helps to brighten the skin, and as I mentioned, you want to avoid any kind of harsh chemicals.
So the first thing that you do is you clean the skin, and then you have to prepare the skin. That might mean putting on a numbing cream if the person wants numbing cream. And then you are going to start in the less sensitive areas. Possibly on the forehead and then work your way down work in different sections.
And this will give, so instead of trying to do the whole face at once, you work in a small area and you don’t wait for the skin to get pink before you go to the next area. Okay. You would treat the area like four times in each direction and then move on to the next area. You can always go back. It is a light to moderate pressure and really the device itself will do the work.
You don’t have to press too hard because that can cause trauma to the skin. And I’m sorry for my slide, really formatted it looks like. Some of the words got cut off.
Typically for acne scars, superficial scars will respond well to depths between 5 to 1. 0 millimeters. Deeper scars like those ice pick scars or the boxcar scars require 1. 5 to 2. 0 millimeter especially if they’re on the chest or the back. I would probably say more 1. 0 to 1. 5 and see how that works when you’re working on the face.
As far as the frequency for active acne, you are going to work every four to six weeks, very shallow depth, and again, don’t treat any active pustules or you don’t want to spread the bacteria. and you want to use an anti inflammatory serum and acne targeted serums and treatments afterwards. If it’s a scar, same thing every four to six weeks, you’re going to go a little deeper depending on how severe the scar is.
And as I mentioned, they should notice a difference within three to six weeks. months of treatment. Once the desired results are achieved, they can come in for maintenance every three to six months to maintain the skin health and they should be doing care at home with products. After the treatment, gentle cleansers, avoid sun exposure, use your serums.
They should cleanse with a mild non fragrance cleanser, and a hydrating serum. So some of the things that might occur afterwards and so redness, swelling, peeling or normal infection is very rare, but it is certainly a possibility. But typically, you get mild redness, peeling, swelling, which subside within 24 to 48 hours.
Something that’s great is if you can combine the microneedling with other therapies, either within the treatment or in the case of acupuncture, you would alternate. So what I do with my patients with acupuncture, is I will give them three weekly acupuncture treatments during the month, facial acupuncture.
Then on the fourth treatment, I will do microneedling. And so I work the microneedling in. Red light therapy can be used or LED therapy can be used, especially the blue light because that helps to kill the bacteria. of the acne and putting these things in combination can really yield the greatest benefits.
It’s very important that you document everything, keep a record of all the treatments, including the needle depth, what products were used, and the client’s symptoms. responses or reactions, and make sure to schedule the follow up so you can monitor the progress. Always use before and after photos so you can document the changes because people don’t always notice the changes.
And then by doing the patient education, you can ensure the best safest outcome for your patient. So this is my social my website is FacialAcupunctureClasses. com. I’m on Instagram and Facebook under my name Michelle Gellis and I hope to see you in class sometime.